Last cycle day

Strategically, I'm sure, VBT saved the most beautiful cycling scenery for the last day on purpose. Today, we biked from our Masseria hotel through Uggiano La Chiesa south to Vignacastrisi through pretty country roads with more olive groves and rolling farmland, ending at some old quarries on the coast at Castro. Then we biked back north along the coast to Santa Cesarea Terme, a resort town.



Road along the coast; if you enlarge picture by clicking on it you may be able to see Kevin and Laurie on their bikes.



Here we are at our lunch spot, waiting out a brief rainstorm under the canopy of a restaurant and indulging in an affrogato; not sure I have the spelling right, but its an unforgettable dish/drink of espresso poured over gelato! Talk about a refreshing jolt!



The ladies in their brilliant biking gear.



The most beautiful coast of all was north of our lunch spot.

Ann and I spotted a stone hut a few hundred yards off the road and took a hike to this spot:



The wind was fierce here along the rugged coast, explaining the dwarfed plants.



One of many species we were not familiar with on our hike.



And another.

After swimming in a cove at Porto Badisco, Ann, Kevin and I did an extra 10 miles or so repeating the post lunch stretch with the excuse of going to find my bike mirror which had fallen off along the way (we found it!). Then we also did an extra loop of 23 km, for a total of about 55 miles! Fantastic day. We had a nice final dinner, including an Ode to Puglia by poet laureate Laurie. Will be sad to say goodbye to our guides and our new friends from Kansas, Rochester, PA, and MD.


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Location:The Salento coast

On to Otranto region

Today was another transfer day. We actually traveled by bus to a town called Melpignano, then cycled toward Otranto from there down some nice country roads.



Olive trees with different flower understory...sorry! They're just so pretty!



More poppies seen along the way. I'm nominating them for most beautiful 'weed'!



David and Jody taking in the sights



Otranto is a very beautiful seaport town and the easternmost point in Italy.. In fact we could see, across the Adriatic, a bit of Albania.


Ann at lunch



We had lunch in a beautiful restaurant overlooking the bay.

On the ride from there to our hotel, again quite pretty, we saw our first 'menhir' a rock structure, clearly human made, but whose purpose is not known to historians.


Menhir

Tonight we are going into Otranto for what I hope will be a light dinner to counter last night's feeding orgy. Ciao!

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Location:Italy

Puglia

Well, Puglia continues to amaze. Today was a day to visit trulli houses and learn about the origin and development of this architecture here in Italy. So today after breakfast we boarded a van and drove about an hour to Alberobello in the Itria Valley. We met there a very articulate and funny local guide named Mimmo. He showed us a small cathedral built by funds from Italians who made it in America, but then also showed us a restored trulli house with a description of the building process (much like an igloo, but double walled). Roofs are constructed of limestone in a very artistic conical form.

It was very interesting to see the inside, but the beauty of them is best appreciated from the outside. A few views of these unique dwellings make it clear why this town, and trulli in particular, are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site.






Here are a couple of trulli on roadsides where we cycled today.

After visiting the trulli we stopped at a small town on our way back to Ostuni for lunch; nice Puglian architecture was evident everywhere.




Local architecture

I continue to be amazed by the beautiful countryside we are privileged to cycle through. Here are some photos.



Ever present poppies



A typical country road

After biking 30 miles on a beautiful day, Kevin, Ann and I had not had enough, so we continued on to a coastal fishing village called Villanova, where we had a gelato and a couple of refreshing drinks



There were beautiful olive groves along the way



Here is Kevin biking on a jetty

At day's end, we had the most incredible meal yet at a Taverna in Ostuni. Antipasti out the wazoo, primi was black pasta made with black olives, and main course of turkey, all fixed with recipes harking back to the Middle Ages. The coup de grace was the dolce (dessert) which was a flan dish with berries that was the most delicious dessert I may have ever eaten. OK, I don't know how you can ever say that, but let me just say it brought tears to my eyes.

Then, a guitarist came in and played a few italian songs, bit gradually he began playing American and British classic rock melodies; the singalong became quite the event, with David playing tambourine (I joined in later) and everyone singing along.






Quite the wild celebration...

A very memorable evening.

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Location:Trulli amazing

Transfer day to Ostuno

One of the great things about a supported bike trip is that they transport your luggage for you from hotel to hotel. So, by 8 AM, we had our bags packed and sitting in front of our room. Left for sumptuous breakfast, then orientation, and we were off on our bikes to Ostuni. En route we stopped at an olive museum, where our guide Luigi did a great job of explaining the history of olive squeezing technology with the original tools right there for us to examine. He also explained that there are hundreds if not thousands of varieties of olives; 27 in the tiny region of Puglia alone. Riding our bikes through olive groves over one thousand years old was amazing... These trees gain twists and wrinkles and scars over the decades and centuries that just form them all into unique individuals. You wish they could tell stories of the weather they have experienced, the peoples they have seen, the animals that have lived in their canopies.



Here are a few of these trees.




This tree will have story to tell about 2013...




Luncheon at table.



Olive press

For lunch we visited a Masseria that had been converted to an agritourism business, showcasing locally grown organic foods. We were warned that it would be the longest lunch of our lives, and we were not disappointed in that regard. The only problem was it was preceded by a 1.5 hr tour of the gardens and olive press area by Guiseppe, an Italian with a British accent and a condescending attitude (or so it appeared to some of us). Ordinarily I think I would have enjoyed the tour despite that except that I wore the wrong biking shirt that day-black and gray with long sleeves; and was overheated. Temps were 85-90 and not terribly dry. Insufficient water and hunger compounded the aggravation about a very late and slow lunch. A headache ensued that had me leaving early with Kevin and Laurie for Ostuni, where a cool shower and water and new clothes revived us.



View from our walk to town




Typical Ostuni street; very picturesque

We walked to town for dinner on our own and had pizzas on a small plaza good for people watching. This was followed by the obligatory gelato (yum!), and later, two very interesting liqueurs; one featuring walnut and the other bay leaf! The latter in particular, was excellent!



Here is the view for our balcony at night.


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Location:Puglia

First full day of cycling

We were really eager to get a full day of cycling. We woke up to another fantabulous breakfast with to die for coffee, then were oriented to our day's ride by our guides. Our destination today was Monopoli, and back. This picturesque town on the Adriatic Sea has long been an important port, and was guarded from marauders with a formidable walled castle, only part of which remains. The town is punctuated by many small beaches, and being Saturday, the locals were out enjoying the sunny upper 70's degree weather, as were we.



Here we are at the shore, enjoying the view with our guide, Debora.



Here is the beautiful shoreline in Monopoli.



Ann in front of the castle.

We most enjoyed walking around the town and visiting the church and the farmer's market.







With the opulence of the marbled, gold leaf, and silver adorned interior, you can understand why Protestantism eventually rose up to, well, protest such concentrated wealth, but there is no doubt about the incredible craftsmanship of the stonework in this church. We were told it consisted of 'many marbles' (a slight mistranslation).



The farmer's market was very lively, and we purchased roasted almonds, wonderful olives, pistachios, tomatoes, beer etc to complement our rolls and pecorino cheese brought on our bikes. The olives and almonds were a highlight for me. No wonder the Mediterranean diet is so healthy!



The streets of Monopoli were filled with interesting things, including a shop where you could buy horse meat (at David's urging, we did - some salami, which was tasty!).



Many streets were narrow and picturesque.



We ended up walking along the ocean and seeing some colorful fishing boats and beautiful sea coast.

Finally, we returns to our bikes and rode back to our humble (not!) abode at Masseria Torre Coccaro. At th entrance to the hotel Ann and I made the decision to switch bikes and ride an extra 15 miles or so to have some extra discoveries, as our guides call them. Beautiful scenery, but I want my bike back! Ann may try to switch to a road bike tomorrow.

As if we hadn't packed in enough for one day, we then went to the beach and enjoyed a cool beverage next to the raging surf. Large dinner coming methinks, if last night was any indication. So far, not losing weight on this trip...



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Location:Around Savelletri

Friday in Italy

Today was an active day. After an enormous buffet breakfast with many hard to resist delicacies, Kevin, Ann and I headed to the golf course to play among the olive tree ancients. I was in it entirely for the scenery, especially when it became apparent that the par 3 course was going to be par 6 on every hole for me. I started scoring the number of strokes under 6 as my score. Notwithstanding the terrible golf, the scenery and weather was in fact spectacular at neighboring Masseria Torre de Maiza.



Ann teeing off on spectacular hole 7.



Kevin teeing off. Couldn't help but irrationally think these ancient wise trees were laughing at the silly humans for chasing around a little white ball.



Beautiful grounds of the golf course.

After getting thoroughly hot in the sun, a cool swim followed by lunch in the shade was just what the doctor ordered. We then got oriented on our bikes and took off on a short ride, covering much the same ground we had yesterday.

We revisited the ancient roman ruins, and were more educated about it this time as we saw them up close. Still trying to wrap my head around time spans of more than 2000 years. Observing ruts from wagons (chariots?) on the old road leading to the Appian way reinforced the mind boggling nature of this place.






From there we rode on up the coast and extended our ride with additional discoveries south of Savelletri. Beautiful coastline.



David exploring a tide pool south of the ruins.



Bikers Ann, David and Jody returning north along the coast road

Before dinner we had cocktails out on a veranda with our new best friends and guides, Luigi and Debora, both Italians and full of energy and good spirits.






Here we are getting oriented with our fellow Vermont bicycle tour travelers, 20 in all...

Longer ride in the morning. I better get some shuteye.


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Location:Near Savelletri

Day 3 in Matera

Weather turned south today with clouds and rain. Morning started at 6 AM with a 3.6 mile run with Laurie through the streets of town. After breakfast, the six of us took a private tour of the crypt of original sin outside of Matera. The frescoes dated to ca. 859 AD! The guide's English was broken at best, but the art on the walls was interesting, depicting scenes from the Old Testament as well as St. Peter, who seems especially revered here. After returning to town, we took a walk to purchase something with local flavor as a souvenir. This afternoon, we head to Puglia; Savelletri in particular. Hoping the weather clears. We are all anxious to get on bikes! But that doesn't start until tomorrow.


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Location:Vico Bruno Buozzi,Matera,Italy

Just a few more photos from Matera

Right in front of the hotel


Pretty doorways


Pretty weeds


These are some kind of milkweed methinks


Enjoying the view


More milkweed


Poppies


So scenic


Matera at night


Olive tree bonsai


We thought this would make a good puzzle


Public square


Sorry. It's hard to resist sharing a few more vignettes. Matera is just so scenic!




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Location:From my good camera